Occupé en France

So isn't this what always happens? I'm super on top of keeping a blog until I actually start living my life - well here we go again.  I have since been to a locally owned vinyard outside of Bordeaux. The workers hand-pick the grapes and only produce about 60,000 bottles per year ( which isn't much compared to larger corporations that bottle millions).

It was super interesting learning about the process of making wine - we had a great guide who also works at the vinyard. She told us how the wine starts in steel barrels for a certain amount of time, but all wines finish in the oak barrels. Each barrel costs about 650 €, so it's rather important to take care of them.

We were able to try at least three different wines and even purchase some for as cheap as 6 €!! After our wine adventure, we went into Bordeaux, which is an amazingly beautiful city! They are restoring many of the buildings because apparently limestone turns black from pollution.

Grand Théâtre, a large neoclassical theater built in the 18th century

Bordeaux has one of the largest squares in Europe with a huge fountain at the front with many intricate carvings. Besides the beautiful, amazing architecture, Bordeaux was also the site of thinkers like Michel de Montaigne and Montesquieu.

Montesquieu

One side of the incredible fountain

After touring the city and taking copious amounts of photos, we came to the Cathedrale St. Andre, which was dedicatd by Pope Urban in 1096. It was where Eleanor of Aquitane married the future Louis VII. The bell tower was actually constructed separately because it was so large the builders were afraid it might damage the interior of the cathedral.

Cathedrale St. Andre

Separate bell tower

There are just far too many things to see and learn about in Bordeaux, so I will definitely have to come back to visit on another weekend. It is possibly even more beautiful by night...

Another place I visited is Lourdes, which is only 30 mins from Pau. It is kind of like a place of pilgrimage for many Catholics because Our Lady of Lourdes appeared to a woman named Bernadette there in 1858. Besides an incredible castle, there is also an amazing church where thousands of people flood in the summertime to see the place where many believe the Blessed Virgin appeared to Bernadette multiple times.

It's really strange to get used to such incredible structures that are so lavishly decorated. Inside the church, there are amazing matted tiles that depict the story of Jesus' life. What was really interesting is seeing the explanation of the story in 5 different languages.

The angel appearing to Mary, telling her of Jesus

It's incredible how massive all the churches are, and again, how intricately they are created. So much time and many skilled craftsmen created this beautiful work of art.

Check out the castle in the background which just happens to be a fort that was beseiged in 778 by Charlemagne. For a few centuries, it was home to numerous Counts until the 17th century when it became a  royal prison. It was a state prison after the French Revolution until the 20th century when it became the largest museum of popular arts and traditions in the Pyrenees.

The huge sign on the tower says Welcome in probably over 20 languages. When I get more time, I am going to go back for the tour of the museum!

Montagne

This doesn't really have anything to do with France, but I wanted somewhere to document it.

I was born in Emmett, Idaho.

My other home is in the Pahsimeroi Valley, or May, Idaho

When I moved to Wyoming, I lived in Shell.

The place I've lived the longest consecutively is Boise, Idaho.

... and in France, I live in Pau.

See the trend? I am destined to live near mountains, thank goodness.

Dimanche

First Sunday in a foreign country, and I'd say it went pretty dang well.  Although I don't understand the exact details, apparently in celebration of when the three Kings came to Jesus, the French eat galette des rois (King cake) for the event of Epiphany. In these sweet breads, there are miscellaneous little toys inside - so eater beware. Christine and I went to a nearby town to get these special celebratory cakes. People were lined up the block of the patisserie, many with children. Apparently, whoever munches the bread and find the hidden object gets to wear the crown they include with it.

We took the purchased cakes to Christine's friend's house, who happened to be preparing a delicious Sunday meal for us. She is Creole and a very apt at cuisine. I have no idea what I ate - but it was very good. She also sent around a mini pot of a sort of green chili pepper looking mix and I was warned of its contents. So I took the teensiest bit and it was still très, très chaud! At least fanning yourself repeatedly is understood across continents, as another lady did the same across the table and we all laughed. After an amazing meal, there was fromage (cheese), galette des rois, café (coffee), chocolat, and more galette. After all this food - and not to mention delicious wine from the region, I was quite fat and happy. By the way, the young 15 sons were not allowed to partake in the vin (wine), so the "hey everyone drinks in France" rumor is untrue!

They also had about four bunnies running around in their yard, her son brought one in and I got to hold him and pet him. Christine said something about "manger" (to eat) and I accidentally cried out No!!! Everyone laughed as I put my sad face on and another lady asked me if we eat rabbits in the US, and I vehemently said no, I definitely don't eat poor little bunnies! It was really funny... but I still am not sure if they were raising them to eat or not... guess that's what I get for not understanding French eh?

Num num! Haha JK (poor Jenna!)

 Feeling like I desperately needed a siesta (wait, I'm in France... not Spain) - the ladies began to play Scrabble. I burst out laughing, attempting to say that I would take them on anyday in English scrabble... but French, HAH! They all laughed and although I wouldn't want to slow them down, it's actually a good idea to help learn vocabulary... I'll remember that.

Haha... yeahh....

After the lovely festivities, we headed home and Christine's son wanted to drive. He is 15, so he hasn't even started training yet... he was very excited and at least the apprehensive looks on my face got him to laugh. He was so excited and we were all having fun as he killed the engine a few times. I love those moments when we are just people and the language/nationality doesn't matter. He is a 15 wanting to drive, just like the 15 year old I used to be, or any other one in the US. One thing I've noticed is that all the little Euro cars are standard/manual. I would think if you just drive a little car in the city and don't need to go over mountains or in super bad weather, you would just have an automatic - but nope. I made it home alive after the wheel was turned over to Christine and I ended up watching "Le Comte de Monte Cristo" (The Count of Monte Cristo) in français and even with Gerard Depardieu! What a lovely day and looking forward to tomorrow!

Useful French phrase learned: bonne journeé (Pronunciation)
- It means good day, so you can say it for "have a good day" or for asking how your day was

Samedi

Having a feeling that the time zone was finally going to catch up with me - I looked forward to sleeping in on Saturday by rolling down my blinds on the patio door. As I finally turned over and checked my watch, I realized it was already past noon! So much for getting out and living your life (lazy bum)! I also had neglected to meet my friend for our "get a phone" date. Christine saved me once again and told me that my friend had called and she set up an appointment time for us to meet.

The two days previous I had tried to get a SIM carte (card) for my phone, mostly at La Poste (Post Office), where they sell useful phone stuff. We went to about three different stores before Chineme suggested Bouygues (pronunciation super weird like Bweeg or something). I remembered where it was from yesterday, so Christine, Chineme, and I trounced down the rue Servier to find the phone store. All I can say is thank God for Christine, I would be so lost without her. I understand basically what the phone lady was trying to tell us - but as to the particulars, I would have no idea and it's kind of important when getting a phone plan. I finally got a working Euro phone as did Chineme so we can actually plan to meet up and not be lost in this big city.

Beautiful view of the main La Poste, close to my house

and bears the words Liberté, Égalité, and Fraternité (Liberty,
Equality, Fraternity) - the motto of the République Française
(Republic of France) and also used on coins previously.

I attempted once more to get another cup of chocolat from the delicious place by the castle, but they were closed. Chineme and I therefore wandered around some more, taking in all the sights, sounds, and differences. Even though I'm kind of a lump when it comes to spending money on "fashionable" clothes, I can't help but admire how classy most people look here - with their scarves, black jackets, and stylish boots. Not sure how style works - if it "debuts" (hey no t at the end of that word - must be French!) in places like Paris and hits the rest of Europe, then East Coast (i.e. New York) and then finally West Coast. But I think people in California definitely have their own sense of style nothing like New Yorkians and for good weather reasons. Listen to me ramble on about fashion - like I know anything. As a West Coast-ian and Idahoan/Wyomite at that, I'll probably always be hopelessly out of fashion - wearing my hiking boots and working jeans.

On my return home, Christine treated me once again to dinner (even though I tried to refuse or at least help pay), but we got started late so the place she wanted to go was closed. We ended up going to "Buffalo Grill," a quasi-American restaurant Christine and Victor called "la maison rouge" because it is lit up with bright red lights. It also had photos on the wall of mountains and buffalo that reminded me strongly of Wyoming. I told Christine that Longhorns used to live outside my house in Wyoming and that one of them broke our window with it's horns... she seemed to think it was amusing.
They had many buffalo dishes and I .... ATE one!

.... JK (haha Jenna!) I actually had a beef steak which was good but never as much as good ole ranch meat in ID or WY. Christine apologized for taking me to an American restaurant and swore it would never happen again... haha! But the dessert was delicious ... a mini chocolate cake (served warm) with vanilla creme around the edges. Kind of like these Gü chocolate cakes we got from the store that are of Belgium origin? SO GOOD!

Top: Dessert @ Buffalo Grill

Bottom: Gü 

Although I'm sure my eating habits are Fascinating, I'll let you go with - I enjoyed my Saturday night.

Useful French phrase: C'est bonne

- meaning "it's good" I use it a lot! (usually referring to food obviously for me - but I think you can use it for other references.

Jours Trois

The day after my lost adventure, Christine walked me to my bus stop so I would remember exactly how to get home :) It was a lovely morning and she showed me the best patisserie in town. I rode the bus for the first time, and again I'm always interested in what is going on around me. I have to really try to not appear too eager and make everyone realize instantly what an American I am.

Nothing like more orientation to get you going the next day, although it was lovely because it was a tour of Pau itself. Since we were already such blatant tourists, traveling in a large group speaking English (very loudly, I might add) - I didn't feel so guilty about taking pictures. Our USAC leader (who completely reminds me of an awesome Boise State Ticket Office buddy back home) showed us all over downtown and the old parts of Pau. Since I had been show the sites a second time, I felt I had a much better grasp of the geography. I learned so much not just about Pau, but France en général (in general). For instance, France is broken into not only cultural regions (Pau is in Béarn), but administrative (Aquitane) which has its own capital (Bordeaux) and number (72). Too compliquée pour maintenant (complicated for now).

I enjoyed seeing the beautiful French architecture and oh my gosh the églises (churches)!!! I especially loved learning the histoire (history) of a particular building - the Museé Bernadotte. It was the place where Jean Bernadotte lived and he was a general under Napoleon. Apparently he has some close ties to the Swedish royal family and when the Swedish royal line failed to produce an heir - Napoleon placed his good ole pal on the throne. So a guy from Pau, France became King of Sweden and the Bernadotte line continues in the Swedish monarchy aujourd'hui (today). I'm sure you can read about it on Wikipedia if you are so inclined.

(Notice the Swedish and French flags)

We of course stopped by the amazing Château once more, and I am still amazed to be looking at a real castle (get inspiration you Hamlet-ers!) We saw many delicious looking restaurants including even Pizzerias and Indian food. I also spied a fondue restaurant (a must before I leave) and a restaurant called Le Dauphin which means Dolphin, but it's also what the Prince of France is referred to (at least in Shakespeare), so I have yet to decipher that mystery. I was desperately craving another cup of chocolat, but we had to continue our journey so I squashed my craving until another day.

The stroll down the boulevard de Pyrénées was breath-taking even though it was foggy. All around the castle and the surrounding buildings, there are flowers still blooming in janvier (January). The buildings look so regal and the streets very French. On the rails of the boulevard an indented lines with names and elevations of mountains by them. Christine told me if you follow the line with your eye, it points you to the mountain written by it! After a visit to the Hôtel de Ville (a kind of City Hall or Mayor's House), we were free to wander around downtown once more.

Mes amis and I almost missed the ability to get some nummy food - for they close restaurants around 2 where we live. They are open at déjeuner (lunch) time usually 11:30-2, but then close and re-open again for dinner around 6. The pâttisseries which are full of yummy breads, baguettes, macaroons, and chocolates are usually open all day. There is at least one patisserie per block - and everyone is right when they say bread just isn't the same in the States. Just thinking of some movie where the bread is light, fluffy, tasty and perfectly flakes - that is the bread in France. My personal favorite patisserie is La Mie Câline ... and the croissant stuffed with chocolate.. num num.

We eventually found a café and practiced ordering and asking for l'addition (check). After putting our friend on the bus, Chineme and I wandered around downtown some more, checking things out and getting to know the place. I found out that they don't give you grocery bags at the store (good idea!) - but you can buy one and re-use it over and over (like green people do). Also learning to use the Euro is fun. After a full day of activities, I walked home and my host mom invited me to go to Zumba with her! Apparently Zumba just came to France about a year ago, and it was very fun! I enjoyed the experience because for once I wasn't nervous thinking about what people were going to say or what I was going to reply. I just danced and had fun. Wherever we happen to live - the human experience is all very similar. We all have hopes, fears, dreams, goals, and loves. When the language barrier isn't the prominent thing in your mind, you realize people are just people, all trying to find a place to feel fulfilled.

(Parc Beaumont - outside my window)

French Phrase of the Day: Pardon (Pronunciation)

- Useful in multiple ways: Saying excuse me or sorry or pardon me? 

Examples: When shopping and you need to get by someone or accidentally bump into someone, or perhaps if you drop something. Maybe you need to get through a line or walked into the wrong class - all these times you may use this phrase. I don't hear excusez-moi very often.

Jet Lag

Orientation jeudi (Thursday) morning at 9 am. After I was dropped off to the Université de Pau, we took a mandatory French placement exam - exhausting for a brain not quite adjusted yet. After the test, we gathered at Leclerc, a kind of mall with many shops and a grocery store. We took pictures for our Université ID's (so not prepared!) and then ate lunch at the cafétéria... again interesting learning how to order and finding out exactly what we were eating.

As I had been previously told.. there is no ice that I have seen in France. People drink bottled water or tap and just drink it regularly. Another huge difference is they have café (coffee) in a small one serving size cup and usually black or with one cube of sucre (sugar) - more fitted to human consumption None of this crazy amounts of coffee and sugar in scary venti-sized Starbucks drinks.

The little miss I sat next to on the plane became my friend as well as another girl met at the airport in Paris and we had fun trying to figure out the French system. After more orientation, information, and papers (always!), we took a Campus Tour. For those of my fellow Boise State goers - we have a very new, modern, and beautiful campus! You never realize how old everything is in France until you see its buildings. But there is a lovely library which even has books in anglais (English)! Also a sports facility with a super huge climbing gym (regretting not bringing my climbing gear)!

The tour was ended prematurely on account of rain (surprise?), so we were free to go home. I was supposed to take the bus, but preferring to walk, I figured I would be fine with my map of Pau. I was doing fairly well - enjoying the beauty of the city until I ran into some autre (other) American students going to get a Kabob sandwich. I joined in and it was delicious! But by the time I had finished, it was REALLY dark and rainy... my map became a clump of ripped useless paper and I lost track of where I was earlier. So after much walking around and starting to think what an idiot I was, I walked past a statue I remembered from the day before when Christine and I had gone to get my set of keys from her brother.

With my handy little "French phrase" book (Thank you CP!), I rang the apartment bell and got across, "I'm Christine's American student, and je suis perdu (I am lost)!" Michel, her frère (brother) took me with umbrellas in tow to Christine's apartment, only two streets away. Very soaked and happy to be home, I welcomed Christine's gracious home-made dinner. Thank goodness I got some sort of sense of direction from somewhere - otherwise I would have REALLY been a goner after only being in a foreign city for a day!

Useful French phrase learned: d'accord (Pronunciation)
 - You use it for OK or I agree or sure, sure - so I heard it many times!

Arrive en France

Leaving Boise at 8 am, I finally set off for my journey to France. This jeune femme (young woman) is learning so much already! I went to Oakland for a more direct flight and rode BART for the first time, hauling my luggage all the way. After far too much worrying about missing my stop (worry - me? ha!), I arrived at the San Francisco airport. Traversing my way around an international section (another first), I found AirFrance and checked in. Still hours to go for the flight, I enjoyed my last meal in America.

The time finally came to board the plane. Flying is still a relatively new thing, so getting through security at Boise, Oakland, San Fran, Paris, and finally Pau - was an accomplishment in and of itself. On the AirFrance flight, we had lovely French attendants and I attempted to speak as much French as possible. I had the great fortune to sit next to a fellow USAC student traveling to Pau. She also was leaving the country for the first time, and also from the Northwest, so we obviously had many things in common. 

The flight wasn't even remotely as awful as I thought and the food was tasty (maybe a French thing?). It felt like I ate, slept, and woke up and ate again. They brought me breakfast and I swore I had just eaten - maybe that's the effect of traveling through many time zones... but I also watched Crazy, Stupid Love and it was entertaining. Finally, the arrival in Paris.

Other than the signs being a different language, it didn't really seem like France. Maybe because Paris is such an international airport, there were many people of different nationalities speaking all sorts of languages (kind of like in Honolulu!). After some apprehension, mes nouveaux amis (my new friends) and I found our way to the connecting flight. Paris to Pau was about an hour since Paris is towards the top of France and Pau is almost bordering Spain!

After all the banding together to find our space in this new place, we students took our separate paths as either a homestay or the dorms awaited us. Being introduced to my host mom, Christine, I practiced the French custom of a kiss on each cheek. 

Christine was very very kind and helpful and so funny! She told me all about everything I was seeing. I thought I was understanding most of it - then I realized later I was very sleep deprived and don't remember much. But apparently the English used Pau as a settlement for their winter months, so they have horse races and one of the largest golf courses in France.

I'm just going to say that I have definitely taken space for granted in my home of the great Northwest U.S. We have such huge houses comparatively - and they still manage to have enough place in their hearts to open their home to complete strangers wanting to live in their country. I will definitely be housing exchange students if I ever have a house of my own. Christine's downtown apartment where she lives with her 15 year old son was perfect, conveniently located and my room cozier than my room at home! 

A few interesting differences: The actual toilet is in a different spot than the room with the tub/shower. There are two rooms with bath/shower/sinks and one actual little "toilet closet" so to speak. Another one is a thing I've seen in general in France and that is the difference of conserving electricity.

In France, electricity is very expensive, so the lights are automatic or self-timed and you ALWAYS turn lights off when you leave a room or when they are unnecessary. In most public buildings, it is the same. The light automatically comes on when it senses you there, then turns off after a certain amount of time or you click it on and then it times out after a bit. A very grand idea compared to the U.S. where we keeps lights on ALL THE TIME! Also, you click the lights down instead of up to turn them on! :)

After unpacking, Christine said I could sleep - but I had been told by many travelers before me to stay up to the regular bedtime in my new time zone otherwise I wouldn't acclimate as well. So I said no way! She was impressed about my energy level (as was I) and we went on a walk downtown. She showed me the incredible Château de Pau (Castle of Pau) where Henri IV of France lived. I couldn't believe I was finally seeing a real castle! 

I took this picture ---> :)

She treated me to a crêpe and a cup of chocolat (hot chocolate). It was the most magnificent hot chocolate I have ever had. Life in America will never be the same! We walked down the boulevard de Pyrénées which is famous for its stunning view of the amazing mountains. We saw the statue of Henri IV and the many, old historic buildings built probably in the 12th century. It was all very surreal. She was very welcoming and made me feel right at home.

After our wonderful outing, she took me to the grocery store which was an adventure in and of itself. You must price your fruits and légumes (vegetables) yourself at a weigh station that auto stamps the price (good to know!) It was interesting how many American brands I saw - and the many many many types of fromage (cheese)! I couldn't even remember what I used to eat all the time - so I bought some pommes (apples). After shopping, we ate dinner and I finally snuggled in to bed around 10 pm in my new French home.

(Parc Beaumont - our apartment building to the left)